Booking a Meal for an Occasion That Matters

Everyone thinks that learning how to plan a celebration meal is about finding the most expensive tasting menu or the restaurant with the most Instagrammable lighting. They think it’s about the pomp. But after twenty-six years of watching people stress over the wrong things, I can tell you that a massive bill and a three-hour … Continue reading “Booking a Meal for an Occasion That Matters”

Eating Decently Where Everything Is Designed Badly

I once watched a young chef, barely out of his apprenticeship, try to explain to a frustrated traveler why a twelve-pound pre-packaged wrap was a “curated artisanal experience.” It was a lie, of course; it was just flour, salt, and a margin that would make a landlord blush. We’ve been conditioned to believe that the … Continue reading “Eating Decently Where Everything Is Designed Badly”

Ordering Confidently in a Cuisine You Do Not Know

I’ve sat through enough “culinary immersion” lectures to know that most advice on how to eat in an unfamiliar cuisine is written by people who have never had to balance a till or manage a kitchen during a rush. They tell you to “embrace the unknown” or “follow your heart,” which is lovely sentimentality, but … Continue reading “Ordering Confidently in a Cuisine You Do Not Know”

Surviving Fourteen Courses Without Regret

I’ve sat on the other side of the pass and watched well-meaning diners treat a twelve-course progression like a competitive sport, eyes glazed over and forks trembling by the eighth course. There is this pervasive, expensive myth that more is always better—that if you aren’t being interrogated by a line of tiny, precious plates every … Continue reading “Surviving Fourteen Courses Without Regret”

Tasting Menus: What You Are Paying for

I’ve sat in enough velvet chairs to know that when a menu doesn’t list prices, you aren’t just paying for the food; you’re paying for the chef’s ego and a very expensive lesson in logistics. Most critics will sit there and wax poetic about “culinary journeys” and “narrative arcs,” but they never mention the sweating … Continue reading “Tasting Menus: What You Are Paying for”