Ordering Confidently in a Cuisine You Do Not Know

I’ve sat through enough “culinary immersion” lectures to know that most advice on how to eat in an unfamiliar cuisine is written by people who have never had to balance a till or manage a kitchen during a rush. They tell you to “embrace the unknown” or “follow your heart,” which is lovely sentimentality, but … Continue reading “Ordering Confidently in a Cuisine You Do Not Know”

Surviving Fourteen Courses Without Regret

I’ve sat on the other side of the pass and watched well-meaning diners treat a twelve-course progression like a competitive sport, eyes glazed over and forks trembling by the eighth course. There is this pervasive, expensive myth that more is always better—that if you aren’t being interrogated by a line of tiny, precious plates every … Continue reading “Surviving Fourteen Courses Without Regret”

Tasting Menus: What You Are Paying for

I’ve sat in enough velvet chairs to know that when a menu doesn’t list prices, you aren’t just paying for the food; you’re paying for the chef’s ego and a very expensive lesson in logistics. Most critics will sit there and wax poetic about “culinary journeys” and “narrative arcs,” but they never mention the sweating … Continue reading “Tasting Menus: What You Are Paying for”

Bringing Your Own Bottle: the Rules Nobody Explains

I remember a Tuesday night in my old dining room, about ten years ago, when a regular walked in with a dusty bottle of Bordeaux he’d been saving since 1998. He looked at me with that specific, slightly defensive squint—the one people get when they think they’re about to be “nickeled and dimed”—and asked how … Continue reading “Bringing Your Own Bottle: the Rules Nobody Explains”