How to find good food when travelling.

Finding the Good Place in a Town You Do Not Know

Stop letting a shiny app with four thousand five-star reviews dictate your dinner plans. I’ve spent twenty-six years staring at the business side of a kitchen pass, and if there is one thing I know, it’s that a high rating often just means a place has a massive marketing budget and a menu too large for its own good. When people ask me how to find good food when travelling, they expect me to recommend the place with the gold leaf or the influencer-friendly lighting, but those are exactly the places where the soul of the kitchen has been traded for a high turnover. A crowded dining room isn’t always a sign of quality; sometimes, it’s just a sign of a very efficient machine that doesn’t care if you actually enjoy your meal.

I’m not here to give you a list of trendy hotspots that will be gone by next season. Instead, I want to teach you how to read the room—to spot the subtle cues in the way a waiter carries a tray or how a menu is printed—that signal a kitchen is actually breathing. I’ll show you how to look past the hype and find the places that are actually worth your time and your hard-earned money.

Avoiding Overpriced Tourist Restaurants and Their Empty Promises

Avoiding Overpriced Tourist Restaurants and Their Empty Promises.

If you find yourself staring at a laminated menu featuring photos of the food, turn around and walk the other way. I don’t care how close it is to the cathedral or how much the lighting makes the wine look expensive; a menu with pictures is a menu designed for people who have stopped looking. In my thirty-eight years, I learned that when a place spends its energy on glossy photography and aggressive hostesses standing on the sidewalk, they aren’t spending it on the quality of their produce. Those places aren’t restaurants; they are traps designed to capture foot traffic before it reaches someone who actually knows how to cook.

When you are avoiding overpriced tourist restaurants, stop looking for the gold stars on an app and start looking at the turnover. A restaurant that is constantly empty despite a prime location is often a red flag—it means they are surviving on high margins and low quality rather than repeat business. If you want authentic culinary experiences, look for the place where the menu is short, the staff looks slightly bored, and the locals are eating standing up. That’s where the real money is being spent on ingredients, not on marketing.

Finding Hidden Gem Eateries by Watching the Staff

Finding Hidden Gem Eateries by Watching the Staff.

When you’re looking for finding hidden gem eateries, stop looking at the gold leaf on the menu and start looking at the feet of the staff. I used to say you could tell the health of a kitchen by the rhythm of the floor. If the waiters are moving with a calm, practiced efficiency—even when they’re busy—it means the management isn’t breathing down their necks and the kitchen isn’t in a state of constant panic. A frantic server is usually a symptom of a broken system, and a broken system eventually leads to a broken plate.

Don’t just watch how they treat you; watch how they treat each other during a lull. If the staff is huddled in a corner, ignoring the dining room, they’re checked out. But if you see a server quietly refilling a water carafe or a chef stepping out to check a prep list without being told, you’ve found something special. These are the authentic culinary experiences that don’t rely on marketing budgets. They rely on people who actually give a damn about the work, and that kind of pride is the only real guarantee of a good meal.

Five Ways to Tell if a Kitchen is Actually Running the Show

  • Look for the “limited” menu. If a place tries to offer twenty different mains, they aren’t specialists; they’re warehouse managers trying to cover every possible craving. A tight, focused menu means the chef actually knows their suppliers and can actually execute the dishes without a frantic, wasted prep list.
  • Watch the rhythm of the service, not the speed. I don’t care if the food arrives fast; I care if it arrives in a way that feels intentional. If the plates are hitting the table in a chaotic rush, the kitchen is drowning. If there is a steady, calm cadence, the person running the pass has everything under control.
  • Check the wine list for intention rather than volume. A massive, leather-bound book of every label under the sun is often just a way to pad the bill. I’d much rather see a smaller, thoughtful list that reflects what the kitchen is actually cooking—it shows the owner is thinking about pairings, not just inventory turnover.
  • Pay attention to the “unseen” staff. You’ll know a restaurant is well-run when the waiter isn’t hovering or performing some choreographed dance. A great server is like a good floor manager: they are there exactly when you need them, but they aren’t interrupting the flow of your meal to tell you how “authentic” the decor is.
  • Don’t fear the solo seat at the bar. If you want the truth about a place, sit where the staff eats or where the locals linger. The bar is where the real pulse of a restaurant lives; you can see the tension, the triumphs, and the quality of the ingredients without the distraction of a tablecloth and a heavy menu.

The Real Indicators of a Healthy Kitchen

Look for a menu that changes with the season rather than a massive, printed book of twenty staples; a short menu means the chef is actually in control of their stock and their sanity.

Pay attention to the rhythm of the room—if the staff is rushing frantically or standing around staring at their phones, the management has lost the floor, and you’ll likely be paying for their lack of coordination.

Check the wine list for intention rather than just price tags; a well-curated list of interesting, mid-range bottles tells you the owner understands their margins and respects the guest’s palate.

The Truth in the Waste Bin

“If you want to know if a kitchen is actually cooking or just reheating, stop looking at the glossy photos on the menu and start looking at the bins out back; a restaurant that’s truly alive has a specific kind of organized chaos in its scraps, whereas a place that’s just surviving is usually too terrified of waste to actually buy anything fresh.”

Rosalind Achterberg

The Last Call

Finding operational sanity at The Last Call.

At the end of the day, finding good food isn’t about following a digital breadcrumb trail of five-star reviews or chasing whatever the influencer of the week is posting from a velvet booth. It is about looking for the cracks in the facade. It’s noticing the small, efficient rhythm of a kitchen that isn’t overstretched, recognizing that a limited menu is often a sign of respect for the ingredients, and understanding that a restaurant’s soul is found in its margins—the way they treat a late arrival or how they manage their stock. If you stop looking for the spectacle and start looking for the operational sanity, you will find the meals that actually stay with you.

I spent twenty-six years balancing books and braising short ribs, and if I learned one thing, it’s that the best dining experiences aren’t polished to a mirror shine; they are honest. A truly great meal is a fragile thing, built on the backs of people who are well-fed, well-paid, and deeply focused on the plate in front of them. So, when you sit down in a city where you don’t speak the language, don’t look for the gold leaf. Look for the quiet competence. Eat where the staff looks like they belong, and you’ll find that the most profound flavors aren’t found in the hype, but in the integrity of the service.

Frequently Asked Questions

If I see a place that looks busy but the menu is massive, is it actually a good sign or just a trap?

It’s a trap. A massive menu is a sign of a kitchen that’s terrified of saying “no” to a customer, but it’s also a recipe for disaster. When you have fifty items, you have fifty different ingredients to prep, store, and rotate. It means nothing is truly fresh, and the staff is constantly playing catch-up with prep lists. A busy restaurant with a huge menu isn’t “popular”—it’s just a high-volume factory struggling to stay afloat.

How do I tell the difference between a restaurant that's genuinely high-quality and one that's just mastered the art of looking "authentic" for tourists?

Look at the margins, not the center. A restaurant selling “authenticity” focuses on the theater—the heavy linens, the scripted greetings, the decor that screams a specific culture. A real one focuses on the inventory. Check the menu for seasonal shifts; if they’re serving the same heavy, predictable staples in July as they do in January, they aren’t cooking, they’re just assembling. Real quality is found in the details that don’t make for a good photo.

When I'm eating alone at a bar, what specific cues should I be looking for to know if the kitchen is actually in control of their service?

Watch the pass, not the plate. When you’re perched at the bar, look at the rhythm between the kitchen and the floor. You aren’t looking for speed; you’re looking for composure. If the pass is a chaotic staging area of leaning plates and frantic shouting, they’re drowning. A kitchen in control is quiet. They move with a steady, deliberate cadence, and the food hits the counter exactly when the server is ready to receive it.

About Rosalind Achterberg

A restaurant is a business that happens to serve dinner, and almost everything written about them forgets the first half of that sentence. I will tell you why the menu has nine mains and not fifteen, what a corkage policy is really protecting, why the good waiter is the one you did not notice, and what it costs — in money and in people — to keep a small room open for another year. I have made every mistake in this trade at least twice, and I would rather write them down than watch someone repeat them.